Monday, October 19, 2009

Qu'est ce que c'est a boire? C'est le Champagne!



There is only one place in the world that makes champagne, it is the only place with the right to make the magical, bubbly party drink. This place, of course, is the Champagne region of France. It lies just to the north east of Paris, and is known for its endless acres of vineyards, picturesque countryside and, bien sur, its champagne. Champagne is the sort of place that feels like a fairytale, with dense forests, rolling hills and towns nestled in between. One half expects an ogre to come lumbering out from the brush, or a gnome or hobbit to appear in the long rows of vines. The towns exhibit cobblestone lanes, shuttered windows, old architecture and churches. Under the damp mist that permeated Champagne in early October, there seemed only a world of possibility.


As for the drink itself, Champagne, for those who have tasted it, could perhaps understand how the magic of one small Valley in northern France, has been translated into taste. Traditional Brut, with its rich, effervescent bubbles, brings to mind ancient roman festivals where gallic warriors fought in contests of strength. Its a strong drink, meant for celebration.  Rose, with is light fizz and delicate flavor, conjures more of the fair maidens of legend, with long tresses, gay laughs and soft smiles. In a way, I understand now why champagne comes only from the one region, I have yet to find anywhere else on earth that brings the past so close to the present.



Deep in the caves of Veuve Cliquot, where over a hundred years of champagne is stored and aged, the musty cold surrounds the senses. The caves are dimly lit, with recessed modern lighting, but somehow maintain their gallic splendor, as they are over 1000 years old. (Though very modernized) Within the caves lie countless bottle of champagne, some of which are worth over 2000 euros a bottle, and which are the product of centuries of chemistry and careful harvests. Upstairs, Veuve Cliquot is modern, fun and inviting. As a member of the LHM group, a large french luxury brand company that owns the likes of Louis Vuitton and Chloe, Veuve Cliquot has profited greatly from a marketing team that makes everything, even the champagne seem more enjoyable.


In the region, the most famous city is Reims, the site of coronations of the Kings of France all the way from the first christian ruler, Clovis, back in the 5th century. It is also the site of the coronation of Charles Sept, the boy king brought to power by the mighty convictions of Joan of Arc, hundreds of years ago. The cathedral of Reims is, therefore, magnificent, perhaps even more beautiful than Notre Dame in Paris. It has magnificent soaring ceilings, with large gothic trusses. The tall facade of the cathedral draws the eye naturally upward, with all of the imposing strength of the weight of God.  It was largely rebuilt after the First World War, due to heavy bombing, thanks to a certain Rockafeller fortune. It still retains all of its age and beauty, in spite of the destruction in its past.



Beyond the cathedrale, Reims is not a particularly large city, but it boasts some wonderful shopping, dining and historical landmarks. There is a club in downtown Reims, a place aptly named Wall Street, where glowsticks, stripper poles (though no strippers) and blacklighting are all common. In this dance joint, the DJ spins house and remix music until early morning, while patrons watch the drink price ticker, trying to buy their next round at the best price.

Monday, October 12, 2009

Cannes, Ville des Etoiles



As everyone who's anyone knows, the Cote d'Azure is the place to vacation in France, better known to Americans as the French Riviera. Well, there is a reason for this. It is beautiful, luxe, full of wealth and has everything a vacation should offer, sun, sand, food and relaxation. Well, Cannes is one such city. As my European guidebook puts it, Cannes "basks year-round in the glory of its week long film festival, which occurs in May." Well, indeed, in early October, Cannes is still basking in the fading rays of the May festival, and those rays can still provide quite a beautiful tan. 




The beach is the most obvious landmark in Cannes, with miles of seemingly endless sand and sparkling waters, and far off cruise ships parked on the horizon. The sand is soft, smooth, and sparkles beneath the shining water, creating a relaxing beauty that stimulates the senses. The hotels, which are indeed numerous, are all either small, hidden gems, or else, loud, tall glories that scream wealth, privilege and prestige. The restaurants are plentiful, though the cuisine tends to be relatively similar, especially at the beachfront tourist locations. However, there is some variety of ethnic cuisine to be found further away from the water. 




Besides the beach, the two other most famous landmarks in Cannes are the Palais des Festivales, the location of the annual film festival and the Rue d'Antibes, known for its upscale, boutique shopping. The Palais itself, though interesting, is rather underwhelming, just a event hall. However, running around the Palais are blocks of concrete carrying the signatures and hand-prints of hundreds of famous actors, producers and directors, a veritable walk among the stars. Further inland lies the Rue d'Antibes, known for its upscale boutiques and expensive chain stores. Inside, luxury and expense are the names of the game,  no wonder everyone on the Cote is so well dressed. 





Thursday, October 1, 2009

The French Concept of Healthy


In America we live in a society of the low-fat obsessed. It seems everywhere you look in the states today, food is low-fat, high fiber, whole grain and mineral enriched. In France however, the health focus is entirely different. Food is designed to be good for digestion, full of vitamins, no pesticides, all natural. In fact, the most common French foods defy, almost blatantly, all of the American "wisdom" concerning food. Cheese is always full fat, everything is made with cream and/or butter, milk only comes in full fat or demi-ecreme (half cream) and bread is never whole grain. Yet, the French are some of the thinnest and healthiest individuals in the world.

I recently read a Time article that discussed the correlation between exercise and weight, specifically, how gym exercising, which stimulates hunger, may cause people to overeat, and not loose weight. Rather than short bursts of intense exercise, the article seems to recommend that people just move more throughout their day. Walk more, take the stairs, such simple things may hold the key to weight loss. This perhaps, is where the French secret lies, they walk, bike, skate and otherwise self-propel themselves everywhere. Not only is it more eco-friendly, but it allows them to eat their cheese, wine, bread diet rotation with far less fat causing effects.

Now I happen to know there is a book written by a French ex-pat, that says most all of this, though perhaps in much stronger language. The truth is, while we may hate them for it, the French seem to have a better handle on this "being healthy" thing than we do. So, perhaps the moral is, get off your butt, eat that eclair, and go give the dog a couple of extra walks a day. Or, if you work in a cubicle all day, take your lunch for a walk, or drink the recommended eight, eight ounces of water everyday, and get in your exercise running back and forth from the bathroom every twenty minutes. (extra points if you use the bathroom on the floor above you) Somehow that seems less French.