Monday, October 19, 2009

Qu'est ce que c'est a boire? C'est le Champagne!



There is only one place in the world that makes champagne, it is the only place with the right to make the magical, bubbly party drink. This place, of course, is the Champagne region of France. It lies just to the north east of Paris, and is known for its endless acres of vineyards, picturesque countryside and, bien sur, its champagne. Champagne is the sort of place that feels like a fairytale, with dense forests, rolling hills and towns nestled in between. One half expects an ogre to come lumbering out from the brush, or a gnome or hobbit to appear in the long rows of vines. The towns exhibit cobblestone lanes, shuttered windows, old architecture and churches. Under the damp mist that permeated Champagne in early October, there seemed only a world of possibility.


As for the drink itself, Champagne, for those who have tasted it, could perhaps understand how the magic of one small Valley in northern France, has been translated into taste. Traditional Brut, with its rich, effervescent bubbles, brings to mind ancient roman festivals where gallic warriors fought in contests of strength. Its a strong drink, meant for celebration.  Rose, with is light fizz and delicate flavor, conjures more of the fair maidens of legend, with long tresses, gay laughs and soft smiles. In a way, I understand now why champagne comes only from the one region, I have yet to find anywhere else on earth that brings the past so close to the present.



Deep in the caves of Veuve Cliquot, where over a hundred years of champagne is stored and aged, the musty cold surrounds the senses. The caves are dimly lit, with recessed modern lighting, but somehow maintain their gallic splendor, as they are over 1000 years old. (Though very modernized) Within the caves lie countless bottle of champagne, some of which are worth over 2000 euros a bottle, and which are the product of centuries of chemistry and careful harvests. Upstairs, Veuve Cliquot is modern, fun and inviting. As a member of the LHM group, a large french luxury brand company that owns the likes of Louis Vuitton and Chloe, Veuve Cliquot has profited greatly from a marketing team that makes everything, even the champagne seem more enjoyable.


In the region, the most famous city is Reims, the site of coronations of the Kings of France all the way from the first christian ruler, Clovis, back in the 5th century. It is also the site of the coronation of Charles Sept, the boy king brought to power by the mighty convictions of Joan of Arc, hundreds of years ago. The cathedral of Reims is, therefore, magnificent, perhaps even more beautiful than Notre Dame in Paris. It has magnificent soaring ceilings, with large gothic trusses. The tall facade of the cathedral draws the eye naturally upward, with all of the imposing strength of the weight of God.  It was largely rebuilt after the First World War, due to heavy bombing, thanks to a certain Rockafeller fortune. It still retains all of its age and beauty, in spite of the destruction in its past.



Beyond the cathedrale, Reims is not a particularly large city, but it boasts some wonderful shopping, dining and historical landmarks. There is a club in downtown Reims, a place aptly named Wall Street, where glowsticks, stripper poles (though no strippers) and blacklighting are all common. In this dance joint, the DJ spins house and remix music until early morning, while patrons watch the drink price ticker, trying to buy their next round at the best price.

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