Friday, December 4, 2009

This Provincial Life





Having spent time previously in the Provence region of France, I knew what to expect on my trip there; things like lavender, cheese, olives, tablecloths in bright colors, soaps, perfumes and pottery. Truth is, provence hasn't changed in the slightest. Despite the progress of nearly five years and the changing of the seasons, the provence I visited was very much the same place I saw years ago. In fact, this is the very thing that makes provence what it is. It resists time, in a charming, southern-villas kind of way. Traditions are still embraced, the old ways of production valued, and everything old is new once again.



This trip took me to several new locations in Provence, the Pont du Gard, an ancient roman bridge/aqueduct, and Avignon,  the city of the famous "Pont d'Avignon," and also a former seat of the papacy. The Pont du Gard, nestled into the countryside, seems strangely out of place, its glorious arches rising out of a valley which seems completely inconspicuous, save for the bridge itself. In fact, after digesting the glory of the bridge, and after its glamour has somewhat faded, one begins to wonder why on earth someone ever put it there. Yet, put it there they did, and for that we must be thankful. Standing in front of the Pont, time seems somehow insignificant; if such a thing as the Pont can survive millennia, then surely there is plenty of time left to spend enjoying ourselves near it.

The impressive Pont du Gard.

Not far from the Pont du Gard sits another, perhaps more famous bridge, the celebrated Pont Saint-Benezet, the subject of the French children's song, "Sur le Pont d'Avignon."
         Sur le pont d'Avignon

L'on y danse, l'on y danse
Sur le pont d'Avignon
L'on y danse tous en rond
Les beaux messieurs font comm' ça
        Et puis encore comm' ça 

The walls of Avignon.


The bridge itself, though rather unremarkable, has stood for over 200 years outside the walled city of Avignon. Avignon was the papal seat during a 60 year period in the 13th century and still enjoys recognition for this brief period in its history. Indeed, the church was good to Avignon, the central city is entirely walled in, to this day, and boasts beautiful cobblestone streets, a papal palace, and fantastic old buildings erected to demonstrate power. 



Besides Avignon, much of what Provence offers in terms of cities is rather limited. But, once again, this only adds to its beauty. The small towns of Provence are by far its greatest treasure, with weekly markets and some of the best products and food in the world.



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